Climbing Croagh Patrick
Now that we have all recovered from our first Saint Patrick’s Day celebrations since 2019, I wanted to share a little bit about the real Saint Patrick and Ireland’s Holy Mountain, Croagh Patrick. Locally known as “The Reek”, Croagh Patrick is the fourth largest peak in Ireland at 764 m (2,507 ft) and overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo, located just outside of Westport. According to local legend and historical accounts, Saint Patrick climbed to the mountain’s summit and spent 40 days fasting and praying as he banished snakes and evil from Ireland in 441 AD. The mountain has since become a holy site of worship and pilgrimage, with some opting to hike barefoot just as Saint Patrick did as a sign of penance and atonement. In fact, the last week of July is known as “Reek Week,” a seven-day religious celebration that culminates with a pilgrimage up the mountain on that final Sunday. In 2019, nearly 25,000 people participated in “Reek Sunday”. Now, allow me to take you back in time to 2020 and give you all the tips and tricks to climb Croagh Patrick.
In August 2020, after nearly six months in quarantine, restrictions in Ireland had begun to ease, which sparked a much-needed weekend getaway for a change of scenery. One such weekend led us to Westport, an adorable village on the West Coast of Ireland along the Wild Atlantic Way. The first day of the trip was eaten up with travel, as the drive from Dublin is about three hours. After getting settled at the hotel, it was dinner time, and we had made a reservation at Cian’s on Bridge Street. Cian’s is a delicious local seafood restaurant that serves a boutique menu and is on the Michelin watch guide. I cannot say enough good things about this restaurant. If you are in Westport, you must go! Post-dinner, while walking off my lobster and cheesecake with a cookie dough crust, you read that right, we passed a local boutique with shirts in the window that said, “I climbed Croagh Patrick.” The shirt piqued my curiosity, and I spent the evening researching the hike and somehow convinced my husband that our Saturday activity was set. There was also a novelty t-shirt on the line that I suddenly needed to own, and it couldn’t be under false pretenses.
Before I get into the details of the day, here is your packing list:
Euro coins (more below)
Backpack
Layers including a waterproof jacket, the weather conditions can change rapidly as you ascend to higher elevations
Ankle supported hiking boots
Water
Snacks
Walking sticks (or you can rent a walking stick for two euro)
Quick FAQ
Yes, there is parking. The meter only takes coins
The hike takes about three hours and thirty minutes roundtrip but plan for four hours to account for stops
Get there early! The trail is very busy in the summer months
The hike is not for beginners or kids (you will see Irish kids making the hike, they are an exception as long walks and hikes are part of the Irish culture)
The trail is steep and slippery in inclement weather. Do not do the hike in heavy rain conditions
There are no public toilets on the mountain
The next morning, we set off for “The Reek”. There is a very nice car park at the base of the mountain, but the parking meter only takes coins. We forgot coins. We didn’t have any cash. We drove 15 minutes to a nearby gas station for an ATM (there wasn’t one). Do not forget coins, at least six-euros worth to cover the time of your climb. We were able to nab a roadside spot, but if you do not arrive in the morning, you may be parking a fair bit away from the actual base of the trail. As we walked through the parking lot and neared the base of the trail, we ran into several locals offering walking sticks to rent for two euros. I initially thought it was a scam, but there is a little snack shack just before you enter the trail head that sells snacks and knickknacks that was also renting walking sticks too. They took credit cards, so I decided to rent a stick and was VERY happy with the decision post-hike. I don’t want to tell you what to do but rent the stick. Or, if you are an avid hiker and use walking sticks, make sure to pack them. As mentioned in the FAQ above, the trail is very steep, especially as you reach the summit.
The first part of the trail is pavement as you make your way past the snack shack and up toward a statue of Saint Patrick. Once you pass the statue you are greeted with a sign that gives a history of the mountain and hike information. From there, you begin the trek up a series of stone like steps that eventually turns into a dirt/rock combination trail. The first hour or so is a steady incline, primarily on dirt, however, as you get closer to the summit, the landscape becomes shale bedrock that is very slippery. By the end, you are nearly doing a rock scramble.
We lucked out with beautiful sunny weather the day of the hike, a rare occurrence in Ireland. Therefore, the trails were overall dry and compact, and we were given stunning 180-degree views of Clew Bay as we made our way higher and higher. Once we finally reached the summit we were hit with high winds and engulfed in clouds. There is a chapel at the summit, Saint Patrick’s Oratory, dedicated in 1905. Pre-COVID, there used to be Mass held on Sunday, but that has been suspended. The Oratory is a nice place to take a rest break and have a snack before you begin your decent.
Once we finally reached the car park and our legs were jelly, we walked to Campbell’s Pub, conveniently located right next to the car park, for a pint and a sandwich to celebrate our triumph, before heading back to Westport to buy the “I climbed Croagh Patrick” t-shirt. If you are a traveler who enjoys an outdoor adventure, this is a stop for you!
Xo
SnS